Exfoliation Meaning: Best Exfoliating Products and How Exfoliation Works
- Kavya Goswami
- Jun 9
- 9 min read
Updated: Jun 21
Skincare has seen a massive surge in popularity post-pandemic, with exfoliation becoming one of the most talked-about steps in the routine.
What was once limited to grainy physical scrubs has now evolved into a much wider range—including chemical and enzymatic exfoliators—thanks to innovation in the beauty and skincare industry.
But with so many options now available, are we truly aware of what type of exfoliator is right for our skin? Do we really understand what exfoliation does?
The truth is, many people use exfoliating products out of FOMO or marketing hype, without fully understanding their skin type or concern. In the process, they risk over-exfoliating and damaging their skin barrier—all in the name of removing dead skin cells.
It’s time to shift the focus from trend-driven routines to informed choices. Let’s break down what exfoliation really is, how it works, and most importantly—how to choose the right kind of exfoliator for your skin.
Let's Get Real: Exfoliation
It’s time to understand what exfoliation really is and how it works. In simple terms, exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin to reveal smoother, brighter, and healthier-looking skin.
But there's more to it than just that. Different types of exfoliators work in different ways—some help to control excess oil and unclog pores, making them effective for reducing acne, while others gently lift away the top layer of dead skin to improve texture and tone.
Choosing the right exfoliator for your skin type and concern can make all the difference in your skincare routine.
How does Exfoliation Works?
Our skin naturally renews itself approximately every 28 days, but without exfoliation, dead skin cells can accumulate—leading to dullness, clogged pores, breakouts, and uneven texture.
Using exfoliants like physical, chemical, and enzymatic types, we can effectively remove this buildup to reveal brighter, smoother, and healthier-looking skin. This not only enhances your skin’s texture and tone but also allows products like serums, cleansers, and moisturizers to absorb more effectively.
Each type of exfoliant has a unique molecular structure, solubility in water and oil, and mechanism of action, which means they interact with the skin differently depending on your skin type and specific concerns. Choosing the right exfoliant is key to achieving optimal results without compromising your skin’s health.
Types of Exfoliators
Physical Exfoliators
Physical exfoliators are skincare products or DIY skincare methods or tools that remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin using manual friction or abrasion. They contain small textured particles to physically scrub away outer most layer of the skin.
Most common forms of exfoliators are cosmetics products like Face Scrubs which contain ground coffee, sugar and crushed walnut shells to exfoliate top layer of skin. This type of scrubs are usually showcased in advertisements for removing blackheads, whiteheads and unclogging pores.
Some of the Physical Exfoliation Tools have also gone viral where people use Loofahs, Toothbrush, Sponges and Exfoliating gloves or mitts for exfoliating their skin.
Peeling Gels are also available in market which are mostly combination of Scrubs and Chemical exfoliators because they do have chemical exfoliating agents in it.
Physical exfoliators can be extremely damaging to skin first they are not effective at all times, second at one point you won't realize if you are removing just the outermost dead layer of skin or removing actual newly formed cells from it. This can make you skin sensitive and damage your skin barrier.
Chemical Exfoliators
There are three types of chemical exfoliators including Alpha-Hydroxy Exfoliators (AHAs), Beta Hydroxy Exfoliators (BHAs) and Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs). Let's understand them in detail.
Alpha Hydroxy Acid
So, what exactly are AHAs, aka Alpha Hydroxy Acids and how do they work on our skin. These are Hydrophilic forms of acid which means they are water-loving or water-soluble in nature, except for Mandelic Acid, which is Oil-soluble, hence they help is surface exfoliation by acting on top layer of skin to gently remove the dead skin cells and give space to new cells, hence you skin appears brighter and healthier. There are three different forms of AHAs which includes Glycolic Acids, Lactic Acids and Mandelic Acid, all these three forms of Alpa hydroxy acids differ from each other in their molecular size, where Glycolic Acid being the smallest of three and Mandelic Acid being the largest.
Among the three forms of AHAs Lactic Acid is the most suitable because it has apt size and it is very mild on skin, so can be used by people with sensitive skin. If you still feel itichy will using it Mandelic Acid is the next alternative.
For Indians, or for people with skin of color it is better to use Lactic Acid or Mandelic Acid for surface exfoliation in comparison to Glycolic Acid. It is so because Glycolic Acid's small molecules can go way deeper into the skin and can lead to hotspots on skin because Glycolic Acid can make you extra sensitive to sun rays, so it is must to wear sunscreen the next day after you do face exfoliation at night.
Or if you do want to use Glycolic Acid in your skincare, then it's better to go for lower percentages, don't use higher than 5%. If you are using Lactic Acid, then you can use skincare products with up to 7% amount and for Mandelic Acid 10%.
Glycolic Acid Hacks:
You can use Glycolic Acid on dark elbows, knees and ankles as it has smallest molecular size it can easily remove those dead skin cells and make your skin brighter.
Don't use Glycolic Acid on your underarms because it is a body part which usually hot and sweaty due to constant skin-on-skin friction and you shouldn't use Glycolic Acid on such area and it can lead to skin burn and can make your skin extra sensitive.
If we talk about Glycolic Acid for scalp, you can use it but it's not going to be that much effective, especially, if you are thinking of using it for your Dandruff, because Glycolic Acid has no proven study on acting on Dandruff. It can help to exfoliate top layer of scalp and make it a bit clean, but it won't do anything more than that.
Beta Hydroxy Acids
You must have seen written BHAs in most of the skincare products especially serums, so what exactly is BHA, aka Beta Hydroxy Acids, these are Lipophilic Acids, which means they are oil-loving or oil soluble acids in nature. BHA helps to go deeper into your pores to remove excess oil from your pores and work on reducing oil production by replenishing the skin.
BHA is a holy grail exfoliating acid, majorly has Salicylic Acid, is not very harsh on skin and gently exfoliates your skin and unclogs pores without damaging your skin barrier. It can be used in AM and PM skincare routine; it is most crucial Acid for people with oily skin as it helps in removing excess oils and can be used twice a day without damaging skin barrier and can be used everyday.
But it's best to do a "patch test" on skin before using it on whole face to check if it's irritating your skin. In the initial day, you can start slowly by using thrice a week and then increasing the usage as per your need but don't overdo it.
Unlike Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid does not make your skin extra sensitive to Sunlight so you can use it in the morning but it's a must to use sunscreen the next day or after using Salicylic Acid in the morning skincare.
People with Combination and Normal skin type can use Salicylic Acid face wash or cleansers but they need to be careful while doing so because it can make your skin dry. It's better to use once a day or on days when you feel excessively oily.
Polyhydroxy Acids
Wondering what are Polyhydroxy Acids? These are our new form of exfoliating acids, PHAs, also known as Polyhydroxy Acids which also come under AHA family (i.e. AHAs like Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid and Mandelic Acid). PHAs are comparatively larger molecules of Acids than AHAs and work in the similar way by doing the skin surface exfoliation.
PHA includes Lactobionic Acid, Zinc Gluconate, Gluconolactone, and Maltobionic Acid, which because of their larger structure do not penetrate deeper into the skin, so work on outer layer of skin and gently exfoliate your skin by smoothing and mositurizing your skin at the same time. Also, protects your skin from free radical formation on skin. PHAs are you skin's best friend especially in winters.
PHAs are best form of exfoliating agents apart from Lactic Acid and Mandelic Acid which gently act on your skin surface to revive outer cell-structure and brightens the skin. Best part is they are ideal for people with sensitive skin as it won't be harsh for their skin work the same way as AHAs.
PHAs are not irritating, anti-inflammatory and hydrating exfoliating acids. Most interesting part of these acids is they don't have any side effects, but it's always better to do a "patch test" before you include it in your everyday skincare routine.
Enzymatic Exfoliators
Enzyme exfoliators are derived from natural fruit extracts like pineapple, papaya, and pumpkin, commonly listed as Bromelain (from pineapple) and Papain (from papaya) in skincare products. These enzymes are known for their gentle, anti-inflammatory properties, making them ideal for mild exfoliation.
However, one important thing to note is that enzyme exfoliators are highly sensitive to pH and temperature changes, which can affect their effectiveness. So if you have sensitive skin, it’s important to use them with extra care and follow product instructions closely or just avoid using them.
When To Use Exfoliating Acids?
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs):
It’s best to use it just 1–2 times a week—overusing it can lead to irritation or a burning sensation.
You may notice an instant glow on the day of use, but visible improvement in skin texture typically takes around 8 weeks or more. So, remember: consistency and caution are key for long-term results.
Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHAs):
You can use it once a day, preferably at night.
As someone with oily and acne-prone skin, I found it worked better when used in the evening. During the daytime—especially in the summer—I avoid layering too many serums or moisturizers, so incorporating it into my nighttime skincare routine made more sense.
If your skin is very sensitive, use it with caution. Start by applying it on alternate nights instead of daily to let your skin gradually adjust.
To Remember: Always listen to your skin and use the products accordingly. Don't overuse any skincare acid because it can strip your skin's natural oil and can damage your skin barrier.
Can you use Retinol and Exfoliating Acids together?
It's better to avoid because exfoliating acids work on top layer of your skin and remove dead skin cells while Retinol helps in increasing cell turnover and make it look more youthful and fresher, using them together can lead to tingling and irritation in skin which can ruin skin barrier. It's better to not use this combination in same night.
Can you Use DIY Skincare Hacks in Exfoliation?
DIY exfoliators may do more harm than good—especially when using ingredients like lemon or orange peel. These contain citric acid with a pH of around 2, whereas our skin's natural pH is between 4 and 5. This mismatch can disrupt the skin barrier, leading to sensitivity, irritation, and long-term damage.
Similarly, physical scrubs made with ingredients like sugar or coffee may seem harmless but can be too abrasive. They don’t just remove dead skin—they can also strip away healthy, new skin cells, leaving your skin vulnerable and unprotected. It can make your skin dry and make it look duller.
Skincare Actives to Avoid with Exfoliators
If you’re exfoliating your face at night, it’s best to avoid using strong skincare actives like Retinol or Benzoyl Peroxide right after. Combining these can lead to irritation, dryness, or damage to your skin barrier.
However, if you have oily and acne-prone skin, key ingredients like Salicylic Acid, Benzoyl Peroxide, and Retinoids can be very effective. The trick is to use them at different times—not all together. For Retinoids, consider opting for gentler Vitamin A derivatives instead of pure Retinol (the alcohol form) to reduce the risk of irritation.
Thing to Note:
Exfoliating at night is ideal—especially when it comes to chemical exfoliation. Avoid physical scrubs or exfoliating tools, as they can be too harsh on the skin.
And remember, wearing sunscreen the next day is non-negotiable. Your skin becomes more sensitive after exfoliation, so protecting it from UV damage is a must.
Exfoliation is key to achieving brighter, smoother, and healthier skin—but protection and balance are just as important.Overusing any product can do more harm than good, so always remember: moderation is essential.
Don’t follow skincare trends blindly—what works for someone else might not work for you. We all have different skin types and concerns, so it's best to listen to your skin and address your issues accordingly with the right approach.
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